Semisoft collar and fabric for making the same



J. v. MOORE 1,842,623

SEMISOFT COLLAR AND FABRIC FOR MAKING THE SAME Jan. 26, 1932.

Filed Aug. 4, 1926 Patented Jan. 26, 1932 UNITED. STATES 'ATENT OFFICE.

JOHN V. MOORE, OF PAVVTUCKET, RHODE ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TO MOORE FABRICCOMPANY, OF PAWTUCKET, RHODE ISLAND, A CORPORATION OF RHODE ISLANDSEMISOF'I COLLAR AND FABRIC FOR LEAKING THE SAME Application filedAugust 4, 1926. Serial No. 127,124.

. This invention relates to asemi-soft collar in which the desired.curvilinear shape of the article is accomplished mainly or entirely byproviding distinctive weaves for different portions of the fabric, allwoven in one piece but having quite different shrinkage values.

This application is a companion application to a case recently filed byme, Serial No. 125,545, filed July 28, 1926, in which the 0 broadinvention. is fully set V forth and claimed, and in which specificclaims are made to one form of the invention in which phe fillingthreads run lengthwise of the colar.

It is the object of my present invention to provide a semi-soft collarof the general type above described but in which the warp threads runlengthwise of the collar, and in =which the distinctive weavesformstrips running lengthwise or warpwise of the fabric. In this form ofmy invention the filling is commonly straight and uniform throughout thelength of the fabric but the'manner of interlacing the warp andfillingthreads is varied in different parts of thewidth of the fabric, and thewarp threads are so manipulated by the harnesses that strips of fabricare woven side by side which have very different shrinkage values. Myinvention further relates to arrangements and combinations of partswhich will be'hereinafterdescribed and more particularly pointed out inthe appended claims- A. preferred form of my invention is shown in thedrawings, in which Fig. lis a plan view of a portion of myimprovedfabric; 1 V I i Figs. 2, 3 and 4 are detail sectional views,taken longitudinallyof the fabric at different portions of its width, asindicated by the lines 22; 3 3 and 4.@ in Fig. 1;.

Fig. 5'is a plan view of a portion of the fabric after shrinkage; i

Fig. 6 indicates the curvilinear formv of a collar cut from the fabric;and

Fig. 7 is a transverse sectional view of a collar formed from thefabric- Referring tofithe drawings, I have indicated a fabric woven inlongitudinallyextending strips providing-a face or flap portion 10,'afold portion 11, and aband portion 12. As the fabric is woven, theseseveral portions of the fabric lie side by side flat and straight asindicated in Fig. 1. The different portions are so woven, however, thatthey shape indicated in Fig. 5.

This varlatlon 1n shrlnkage values may be accomplished by a number ofdifferent combinations of weaves, and in Figs. 2, 3 and 4, I haveillustrated one such combination.

The face or flap portion 10 of the fabric is preferably formed with abalanced weave in which the interlacings of the warp and filling appearequallyv on bothfaces of the fabric. In Fig.2 I have shown a three andone weave for the face portion, in which each warp threadW floats on theupper or lower surface for three picks and is then bound under or over asingle pick of filling F. A substantially equal number of warp threadsare caused to float on eachsurface,

so that a firm fabric is produced which will lie flat aftershrinkage.

For the fold portion I provide a firm but very much unbalanced weave, sothat a natural hinge action will be produced. As shown in the drawings,I have provided a one-up and three-down weave, in which each warp threadW passes over a single filling thread F andthen remains .on the lowerface of the fabric while the next three picks of filling are inserted.It will be seen that all of the warp threads thus float on the lowerface of the fabric, while the filling threads are crowded together attheupper face of the fabric. Th s fabric upon shrinkage. tends to buckle orfold as a hinge, forming a sharp curve indicated in Fig. 7.

The band portion 12 of the fabric is woven with a loose or relativelyopen unbalanced weave as indicated in Fig. 4, where I have shown afive-up and three-down weave. In this figure it will be seen that eachwarp thread W passes through the fabric in the same direction only oncein eight picks, and that it floats on the upper surface of the fabricfor five picks and is then bound under for three picks. This loose orrelatively open Weave provides a soft finish for the band and also formsa material which will shrink very decidedly during the processes offinishing. Furthermore, the shrinkage is more "pronounced on the upperface of the fabric where the longer floats occur, causing therfahric toassume the concave appearance shownin Fig. 7. This concave shape addsgreatly to the appearance of the finished collar and causes theband tolie closely and smoothly against the inside of the face portion or flap.

While the weaves shown in Figs. 2, 3 and 4 are particularly well adaptedfor the purpose of my invention, the weaves may obviously be changedwithin rather wide limits. The weave at the fold portion for instance,may be'changed from a one-up and threedewn to a one-up and two-downweave, which will produce an even sharper hinge or fold faction. Theweave of the band portion 'may be changed to a six-up and two down or aseven-up and one-down weave instead of the five-up and three-down weaveshown in F ig, 4, and if such changes are made the relative shrinkagemay be made even more roiibunced and a more marked concave effect in theband may be produced. I It is also within the scope of my invention touse warp threads having distinctive characteristics in the diiferentportions of the fabric, for instance, the warp used in the face portion10 and the fold portion 11 may be a relatively soft or slack twistedwarp, while the warp used in the band portion 12 may be a hard or tighttwisted warp which will have a substantially greater shrinkage than thesofter warp. By thus using different types of warp-in different portionsof the fabric, the relative shrinkage may be made more pronounced. V

I commonly use a uniform reed spacing of warp threads across the entirewidth of the fabric, but under special conditions I may find itadvisable to vary the spacing.

In the production of collars from my improved fabric, the collar may becut from the straight fabric as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 1, butpreferably the fabric is first through the shrinking and finishing proc-'assuming a curved form as shown in Fig. 5 before the collar is cuttherefrom.

After the collar is cut from the fabric, however, an additionalshrinkage takes place as soon as the portions of the collar are freedfrom the adjacent fabric.

By suitably selecting the weaves and by using the proper weights andkinds of warp and filling, a single ply collar may be woven straight andflat in a single piece which, upon shrinking and finishing. will assumethe exact curvilinear shape and fold necessary to produce a satisfactorycollar.

In the following claims I use the term active warps to designate suchwarps as are actively used in weaving the exposed face of the fabric, asdistinguished from stuffer, hinder, or re-inforcing warps.

Having thus described my invention and the advantages thereof, I do notwish to be limited to the details herein disclosed otherwise thanv asset forth in the claims. What I claim is 1- 1. A single ply semi-softcollar havin the warp threads extending lengthwise o the collar andhaving the band and face portions of the collar woven in one piece andcomprising filling threads and active warp threads only, said parts beinwoven with straight warp and straight lling threads but in distinctiveweaves effective to cause a collar cut therefrom to take a curvilinearform upon shrinkage and finishing.

2. A single ply semi-soft collar having the warp threads extendinglengthwise of the collar and having the band and face portions of thecollar woven in one piece and comprising filling threads and active warpthreads only, and having the warp and filling threads difi'erentlyinterlaced in said two portions, so that the band will shrink morereadily and to a greater extent than the face portion.

3. A single ply semi-soft collar having the warp threads extendinglengthwise of the collar and having the band and face portions of thecollar woven in one piece and cornprisin filling threads and active warpthrea only, said parts being woven with a greater number of interlacingsof the warp and filling threads per unit of surface area in the faceportion and with a less number in the band portion, whereby said bandportion will have greater shrinkage during the finishing of the fabric.

' 4. A single ply semi-soft collar having the warp threads extendinglengthwise of the collar and having the band and face portions of thecollar woven in one piece and comprising filling threads and active warpthreads only, said parts being woven with relatively slack twisted warpin the face portion and with relatively tight twisted warp in the bandportion and having said warps differently interlaced in the band andface portions, producing greatershrinkage in the band portion onfinishing.

5. A single ply fabric for semi-soft collars so woven that the warpthreads will extend lengthwise of the collar, said fabric being woven insuccessive strips extending lengthwise of the fabric and designed forband, fold, and face port-ions respectively, said portions eachcomprising filling threads and active warp threads only and each havinga distinctive weave producing a different shrinkage ratio.

6. A single ply fabric for semi-soft collars so woven that the warpthreads will extend lengthwise of the collar, said fabric being woven insuccessive strips extending lengthwise of the fabric and designed forband, fold, and face portions having distinctive weaves which producedifferent shrinka e results, said portions each comprising fillingthreads and active warp threads only and said fold portion being of thefull strength of the other portions but having its elements sointerlaced as to produce a natural hinge effect on folding for use.

7'. A single ply semi-soft collar having the Warp threads extendinglengthwise of the collar and having band, fold and face portions wovenwith distinctive Weaveshaving different shrinkage characteristics, saidportions each comprising filling threads and active warp threads onlyand said fold por tion, being as firmly woven as said face and bandportions but with an excessively unbalanced weave with the fillingcrowded together at the outer surface of the fabric, producing a markedhinge effect upon folding after shrinkage.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto affixed my signature.

JOHN V. MOORE.

